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As a child we regularly
took family holidays on the Cumberland coast of England. Initially, my
parents rented an elderly static caravan sited on a farm. It was a working
farm, reached via a long dusty track (the summers were far hotter for
far longer in those days).
The caravan had an
outside loo, housed in a draughty old stone byre and must have dated back
for centuries. The loo itself was simply a hole in a plank positioned
over a drop into a stream. There was no light and the building was full
of cobwebs and vaguely discernible scratchings and rustlings. It was not
a place in which to linger long.
The Romans used to
have communal loos with many positions, allowing conversational discourse
during the morning's ablutions and I recall a friend's farm having a two-station
affair, but our holiday facilities were not as sociable, just a dirty,
smelly hole-in-the ground with a draughty, ill-fitting door.
The farm was home
to a number of largely untamed collie dogs that were sometimes attached
by lengths of rusty heavy-duty chain to buildings or to various bits of
farm machinery. Sometimes they were not attached, or had become dis-attached
and would take great delight in chasing small boys!
Each evening at dusk
a great white barn owl would perch atop the telegraph pole and survey
its realm as I peered out from behind caravan curtains, marvelling at
its ability to seemingly rotate its head through a full 360 degrees.
In subsequent years
we took a cottage a little closer to the sea and on the outskirts of a
small village. The cottage was remarkable because serving to hold up one
corner of the veranda was a fully carved and gaudily painted ship's figurehead
in the form of a mermaid: brassy, buxom and thoroughly mesmerising to
a small boy.
Each morning we would
pack sufficient rations for the day: soggy ham and tomato sandwiches;
hard-boiled eggs (with a screw of salt); meat pies and sausage rolls and
gallons of coffee in flasks and bottles of pop. All were packed safely
into duffel bags with towels, groundsheets, windbreaks, cricket gear,
water and bowl for the dog - all of life's necessities for a day-at-the-beach.
Then we would follow
the track, over the level crossing, calling hello to the signalman. If
we were especially fortunate there would be a train in the offing and
we would wait for it to thunder frighteningly through belching fire and
brimstone and scattering small stones in its monstrous wake. On then,
past Tommy the cow, wishing him (her!) a good morning too and continue
to process through general heathland to the dunes and finally, the beach.
What a beach it was
- absolutely devoid of any other living soul for miles in any direction.
We became quite proprietorial over OUR beach and would jealously resent
anybody else who dared to invade it.
My father, never
one to over-exert himself, especially when holidaying, devised a system
to entertain the children and exercise the dog at the same time, without
any physical involvement of his own. He launched the kite (easily done
in the updraft of the dunes), tied it to the dog's collar, paid out sufficient
line for it to fly and sat back with his pipe. Result: happy children,
happy parents, somewhat confused but not unhappy dog. The dog, an Elkhound,
was in fact very pleased with itself and would promenade around the family
group, head held erect by the up-draught of the kite and with an expression
of sublime self-importance on its face for hours at a time.
In the early stages
of one of these flights I was looking up at the kite and not down into
a rock pool when a flying creature about as large as a barn door showed
itself briefly above the near horizon of the dunes on its quest for rabbits.
Shock! Terror! Excitement!
- A GOLDEN EAGLE!
Did such marvellous
birds really live in England? I thought they were confined to rocky crags
in the distant Scottish highlands but later in the week we were to hear
on the wireless that indeed there was a resident golden eagle and that
holidaymakers were reporting sightings from all over the Lakes. Indeed,
later in the week a further, longer sighting through binoculars was made
possible from "The Ratty" - that marvellous narrow gauge railway
that still runs from the ancient Roman port of Ravenglass up through the
hills to Eskdale.
The long days passed.
Few if any people intruded upon our tranquillity and often we would have
sole use of the baking sands all day until a herd of cows would amble
down late afternoon, to drink from a fresh water outlet that cut its way
through the foreshore to the distant sea. Cows albeit gentle creatures
are also extremely curious and the sight of a large hairy dog flying a
kite would offend their sensibilities to such a degree that they would
quicken their pace and canter towards us en masse in order to get a closer
view of the phenomenon.
This was generally
our cue to pack up and begin the homeward trek.
Three or four decades
on, I can still visualise that road with its dusty meanderings and the
ever present, bubbling calls of skylarks high above the sandy scrub.
Either side of, and
intruding onto, the road were gorse bushes, in full bright yellow blossom.
Flitting with rapid wing beats and a jerky flight between and amongst
them was a small, largely brown bird searching for insects or spiders.
It perched perkily on the top of one of the bushes and as it did so, allowed
sight of its black cheeks, striking white eye-stripe and white sides to
its short tail. It had warm buff underparts and was calling in a persistent,
strident, fashion.
"What's that?"
I asked of my father.
"A whinchat."
"Why?"
(What an annoying child I must have been.)
"Because it
is sitting on top of a whin bush, which is what they call gorse up here,
and it is making a chatting noise."
Well, that seemed
to be eminently sensible. Whin bush plus chatting equals Whinchat.
Thus, I was hooked
on bird-watching.
I still am.
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