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When I first saw
the clip of 'Mile Sur Mera Tumhara', I was awestruck by the few
Bengali men getting out of a train which has automatic doors and which
was green in colour. At that time I could not associate it with Calcutta
and felt that it was shooting of Bengalis away from their land.
My father who had
been here some twenty-five years ago had maintained that Calcutta was
not a place that bore any resemblance to a worthy place to live in. That
prejudice had stuck and I could not see that train as a part of the dirt
that was Calcutta - as portrayed by my father. I had long forgotten that
train, so much so that when people out here told me - "You can travel
by the Metro. It's a good means of transport" - it never struck me
that the clean, green train that I had seen in that clip actually existed
here in Calcutta - albeit underground.
My first realization
of something different 'lurking' below came, when I saw the metro stations
lines along the Ashutosh Mukherjee Road though no train was visible. A
colleague satisfied my inquisitiveness and then there was a curiosity
which was ignited.
Trains! Ah! They
can never satiate me.
Trains to me have
so many memories. Local trains in Mumbai are a source of constant thrill
and pride. Travelling by these locals daily and boasting about how one
caught a train while it was just leaving the station or how one could
board a Virar local at Dadar and manage to get down at Andheri; was somewhere
synonymous to 'growing up'. My choice of Ruparel College over Parle College
had trains as an important decisive point.
Long distance trains
have always presented a different thrill. The preparation, the winding
queues at the reservation counter, the railway platforms, the coolies,
the 'era' before computer reservations became common-place when the squabbles
over the same seat being allocated to different people and the railway
food - all these still raise goose-pimples on my skin. I have not travelled
much, but have managed to see all possible trains from the 'posh' Shatabdi
to the over-flowing Gorakhpur Express. I even had my nose broken when
in a fit of youthful energy we boarded the Mahanagri Express in the unreserved
compartment on a hiking expedition and had a fight with the agents.
But even today, give
me a second-class sleeper coach train to any place, and I would prefer
it to air travel - except of course, Calcutta to Mumbai.
It however had to
be Calcutta's book fair timings that gave me an opportunity to travel
by the Metro. Four of us boarded the train at Maidan to go towards Jatin
Das Park. Somu, our guide for the day, told us various things one should
take care of while travelling by the Metro.
And there began my
adventure with the Metro of Calcutta.
When the construction
of this underground railway started, Calcutta suffered for innumerable
years (fifteen or so, if what I hear it right). It is also heard that
few buildings caved in under the pressure of the digging. But all this
is surely worth the finished product; for what a railway it is! It is
the only underground railway in India and should be, by any standards
comparable to the any such rail elsewhere.
The moment you enter
any railway station of the Metro, you see hundreds of cigarette butts
lying just outside as smoking is prohibited inside the Metro. And so also
is photography. At some stations and some of their entrances, there are
escalators. As one goes down, a gush of wind greets you. Believe me; it's
really cool and amazing the first time. You get quite curious to find
out the source of this breeze and while you are thinking about it, you
come to the ticket counter. There aren't those long serpentine queues
that one sees for Mumbai locals. A few people here and there at the counter,
is all that can be called as a 'crowd.'
The ticket is a yellow-coloured
one with a magnetic strip. I first looked at it like a child gazing at
gadgets unknown to him. A metal detector and a hurdle of self-locking
doors greet you. You are confused, till you see the LED displaying an
arrow indicating the doors you can pass through and those that are kept
for the people coming out. You put the ticket in the slit and the ticket
comes out at the other end. Only when the ticket comes out, do the doors
open. Another amazing thing is that when you buy a ticket for two, you
maybe given just a single ticket and when this ticket is passed through
the doors, the doors rotate twice allowing the two of you to pass. Now,
that's some automation!
Remember to collect
the ticket, as it's your pass to exit from this underground world. There
aren't any other exits and the ticket is your sole saviour. No wonder,
there isn't any need of ticket checkers inside. Without a ticket you cannot
get in, and without it you cannot get out.
Though, as I observed,
it's not all that impossible. A couple of incidents bought forth the ways
to break rules. We Indians are unsurpassable in that!
The first was when
a family of five people bought a ticket. Three children, in-between the
father and the mother, was how their procession progressed through the
doors. The father passed through with one child and another child followed.
Before the third could pass through, a person came running; and passed
through the open door. The poor mother and a child had to pass and only
once would the door open. How they managed to squeeze was a sight worth
seeing.
Another incident
was when two youths passed through with a single ticket by crowding themselves
in the space meant for single person. They could get through only because
their physiques permitted it, had it been a fatter person, the situation
would have been difficult.
I just don't understand
what satisfaction people get in breaking rules.
But the sheer thrill
of travelling in a Metro is unmatched. As you board the train, there are
announcements in three different languages - Bengali, Hindi and English.
"Parabato station Jatin Das Park. Platform daan dike,"
has now become an indicator that I have to get down.
For quite sometime,
I did not understand what was the meaning of "daan dike"
and often heard it like 'dandige.'
Sometimes, there
is a music playing on the platform - soft tunes of Rabindra Sangeet. There
are ducts that let in cool air and at times people crowd just below the
ducts - a welcome relief from the sultriness that is Calcutta in summer.
A noteworthy thing
about each platform is that there is a theme associated with each one.
Rabindra Sadan has paintings, poetry and writing on the walls of the great
poet. Netaji Bhawan has prominent incidents in the life of Netaji Bose
painted on the walls. Park Street - the commercial centre of Calcutta
has advertisements and commercials in abundance. Park Street along with
Dum Dum and Tollygunj - the two terminal points of the railway - share
the distinction of having the tracks in between the two platforms. Rest
all stations have a single platform with the tracks on either side. So
for Park Street, Dum Dum and Tollygunj, the platform is on 'bai dike'
while rest all are 'daan dike.' When one comes to Dum Dum and Tollygunj,
one is suddenly woken up from the dream as the train emerges above the
ground and into broad daylight.
Another thing that
I noticed was at three or four stations, there are beautiful sketches
- artistic black and white sketches depicting places of interest around
the particular station. It was through these sketches that I came to know
that the houses of Utpal Dutt and Kanan Devi are in Tollygunj.
Somu had told us
the first time that the third track at the far end running parallel to
the main two carries the power and to never touch it as it would kill
instantly - as if we would check it out. It sure must be a favourite spot
for suicides - I thought aloud. Somu boasted immediately, "Till date
nobody has managed to kill one self due to the close circuit televisions
monitoring the platform." It looked pretty simple for me to jump
and touch the third track before any police - if at all there was one
surveying the platform so closely and prompt enough to run down to catch
the person - could manage to come and stop me. It looked simple to die,
and somehow I could not believe Somu. The Times carried an article the
other day, expressing concern on the growing number of suicides at the
Metro stations with statistics published quarter-wise with comparative
figures of previous year. As if like a financial statement!
Another amusing fact
that I noticed at each station is an advertisement of some Organisation
that claims in helping the depressed and suicidal to live a better life.
The advertisement reads something like this:

Now, does it mean
that they would care for these depressed and suicidal only between 10AM
and 6PM? Or is there a separate class of people who are depressed and
suicidal only between 10AM and 6PM to be labelled as '10 AM to 6PM depressed
and suicidal'? What happens if a person is 'depressed and suicidal' post
'office-hours?'
On each staircase
there is a board of 'Don't sit on the staircase' and right beneath it
couples get cosy seeking relief and privacy at a cheap four rupees.
The economics of
this Metro rail must be a matter of concern for the government. It being
considered the most expensive means of transport and also due to its restricted
path, it should need no Amartya Sen to predict that the Metro must be
making losses each year. Yet it works and works well.
A Bengali on the
road spits anywhere, throws rubbish anywhere without the least sense of
cleanliness and civic sense. It is observed that Bengalis keep their homes
clean by dirtying the surroundings - use of the roadside tube-well for
their daily ablutions being an indicator. But once underground, he is
very careful and concerned. A Bengali gets transformed when he goes underground.
But then why should
he not? After all people appear different in dreams. And given the fact
that this 'Calcutta's own; India's pride' is nothing short of a dream,
every Bengali would be a passionate guardian of his pride.
Fifteen stations
between Tollygunj and Dum Dum, and a dream of thirty-five minutes between
them continues
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