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This had not been
a city I loved. In fact, in the three months I had been here, I had thoroughly
despised it. And now it was time to leave.
I sat at the window,
looking out at vistas of Hong Kong spread below me. We lived on an elevated
road - you could take the steps from the road below or use the elevator
at the mall to reach our road. All of Hong Kong was undulating.
It was a beautiful
city with steel and glass structures on one side, and green hillocks and
tree-lined avenues on the other. You could call the people beautiful too,
and if you called one person beautiful, you would have to call them all.
So striking was the resemblance between persons. They were all smooth
of skin, and had hair that dropped down like silk.
My impression of
Hong Kong had been marred from the start. When the plane touched down
at the airport, it was like stepping into a toy city made of matchboxes.
The sea was on one side, but it was green and dull unlike all the seas
I had ever lived near.
And then there was
the slaughter of animals that I had seen the first day I ventured out.
I had walked along a lane of Wan Chai, with vegetable markets on one side
and the meat market on the other side. A truck had stopped a few feet
in front of me, and a man in waterproof overalls climbed down. From the
back of the truck, he pulled out a huge, pink, dead pig and carried it
on his shoulders. The pig was as big as he was. The entrails were dripping
blood. I am not a person easily shocked by gore, but that scene disturbed
me intensely. In later days, I was to see snakes being skinned and their
blood extracted to be served in glass bowls. It troubled me.
There was also the
racism.
There was no real
racism - it was simply an undercurrent. I was not resented, I was simply
ignored. Back in Bangalore, I would have been happy to be ignored. And
if anyone had said that it would trouble me to be persona non-grata, I
would not have believed them. But here it was, I hated living in a city
where my existence was of no consequence, where what I spoke was not heard,
where eyes looked past me as if I was made of glass.
I had hated the feeling.
Nevertheless, this
last day, sitting and looking out at Hong Kong, I feel a dull sadness
overcome me. It is not the pain that hit when I had left Bombay, it is
not the helplessness that loomed when I had left Chennai, it is not even
the mixture of joy and disappointment I had felt when I left Bahrain.
All the other cities were ones I had come to know intimately. But with
Hong Kong, I had made no attempt to know the small avenues, taken no steps
to look behind the faces that passed me everyday. I had accepted my stature
as an outsider without protest.
And that is the sadness
that I feel today. The sadness of saying goodbye to someone who may have
been misjudged.
I must make a resolution
to myself today. That someday I will return to Hong Kong and understand
it better, beyond all my superficial dislikes and discomforts. And in
that knowing, perhaps the fact of not being acknowledged would show itself
to be an illusion.
Until that day then,
goodbye Hong Kong.
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